photo by okinawacrip
You would not usually expect goats anywhere else than on a farm, but what if they were to walk around freely? There is a place like that down in Okinawa – otherwise known as Japan’s southernmost point, Hateruma Island is a real paradise for goat lovers. Among the many islands of Okinawa, Hateruma is one of the more remote ones, but still famous for having many repeat visitors. Traveling here, where the time passes more slowly and friendly goats roam the streets, is a unique and soothing experience!
What kind of place is Hateruma Island?
The name Hateruma comes from the Okinawan word for coral reef, “hateno-uruma”. It is a remote, small island with a population of about 500 people, and Japan’s southernmost point that is still inhabited. From the Okinawa’s main island, first head to Ishigaki Island. After an hour long, shaky ferry ride, you will reach the northern port of Hateruma. Time passes slower here compared to the large cities; and within the island’s unchanged, unspoiled Okinawan landscape and beautiful nature, goats walk about freely. The island is free of the usual resorts, convenience stores, buses and taxi transportation – not even a single traffic light! Sugar cane fields and natural beaches as well as the streets remain unchanged, and while enjoying that view when walking across the island, you will meet countless goats on the way. By bicycle, one can go around the whole island in about two hours. So why not rent a bicycle to visit the southern peak of the island, and take a photo with the monument there?
The Goats of Hateruma
On Hateruma Island, goats can be seen everywhere. The island’s inhabitants even put up road signs bewaring of goats crossing! Some of them are kept by the island’s residents, some are wild goats. In some cases, the kept goats are tied together by a rope, but most of them can run about freely, since baby goats by nature never leave the side of their mother goats. Generally, in areas close to the villages most goats are tied together, but in the southern parts with a lot of open and wide spaces, they can move around just how they please. Especially around the Sky Observatory Tower, herds of goats stroll across the fields. They are used to be close to humans and won’t run away if you approach or pet them. But in reality, these friendly goats are bound to become food, and to be served as raw goat meat or goat stew at festivities such as weddings or school graduations. You can give it a try at a local pub if you like, but to be honest, it has a certain particular smell and taste to it – even Okinawans do not like it that much.
The Stunningly Beautiful Nishihama Beach
photo by travyde.com
A must-see when visiting Hateruma Island is Nishihama Beach. Depending on the lighting, the ocean sparkles like a gemstone in different shades of blue and green, and in a very distinctive color called “Hateruma blue”. In the perfectly crystal clear water, countless fishes swim vividly among the colorful coral reefs. Some island visitors come back dozens of times just for the breathtaking view at this beautiful beach. The glaring sunlight making the sea surface shine brightly and the stunning contrast between the ocean’s transparent blue and the beaches’ white sand is a sight you should at least once see with your own eyes. Nishihama Beach was second place in the 2016 Trip Advisor ranking of Japan’s greatest beaches. The “nishi” in it name comes from the Okinawan word for “north”, and naturally, it is located in the northern parts of the island. Bathrooms and changing rooms are free of charge, and snorkeling gear can be rented at the lodge next to the beach.
Reaching for the Stars
Another feature unique to Hateruma Island is the beauty of the starry sky above it. Thanks to the lack of artificial light on the island in general, plus the dry air typical for the southern islands of Okinawa and the favorable clear sky weather makes this one of the greatest spots to gaze at the stars. A sight more common in places such as Australia and New Zealand, for those living on the northern hemisphere including Japan the Southern Cross is a unique star one longs to see once in a lifetime. Under favorable conditions, there is a chance to detect the Southern Cross from Hateruma Island. Standing a plateau on the island’s southeast, the Star Observatory Tower is a must-see for those with an affinity for astronomy. It is equipped with a 200mm foldable astronomical telescope, and at night, the staff guides you through the constellations while looking at the actual sky. Using a laser pointer, the staff gives a detailed explanation while you can enjoy the breathtakingly beautiful starry sky. But to see the stars in all their beauty, keep the changing of the moon in mind. On a full moon night, you can only see about one third of the stars, so make sure to check the moon’s cycle, for example here 国立天文台天文情報センター, before going on the trip.
Hateruma Island Information
Name
Haterumajima (Hateruma Island)
Address
Okinawa Prefecture, Yaeyama District, Taketomi, Hateruma
Access
From your closest airport, head to New Ishigaki Airport (direct or via Naha Airport).
From New Ishigaki Airport, take the bus for 40 minutes to the last stop, Rito Terminal.
From there, take a fast ferry (one hour) to Hateruma. The ferries leave four times a day.
*Depending on the day, there are also car ferries (2.5 hours).
URL
Summary
Goats peacefully nibbling grass, beautiful beaches and a stunning starry sky. The island might be hard to reach, plus it has only an about 15 kilometers periphery, but every traveler will feel that this part of the world is a paradise on earth. Lately, the Okinawan rice liquor “awamori” has become widely popular also among foreigners, and Hateruma Island has its own unique awamori called “awanami”. It is produced in extremely small numbers, making it both a rare luxury good outside of the island as well as the perfect souvenir!
