First-timers guide to watching Kabuki at the Kabukiza Theatre

photo by Greg Gladman

Along with Sumo wrestling, Kabuki is well-known as one of Japanese traditional arts. Even among Japanese people, there are quite a few people who have not seen Kabuki live. It is wasteful to shy away from it and think that it is too challenging. Kabuki was the commoner’s form of entertainment to begin with, so it is not worth mulling over. You should go just like you would go see a play. Your long-awaited first time of watching Kabuki should be at the newly remodeled Ginza Kabukiza Theatre. We will uncover the impenetrable allure by both hardcore and beginner fans alike of the Kabukiza Theatre and Kabuki itself.

So what is Kabuki exactly?

It is a mixture of different art forms, which include acting, dancing and music, and has a more than 400 year history. The name derives from the term ’kabuku’ which means ’out of the ordinary’ or ’eccentric’. During the Edo Period women were prohibited from going outside so all the women acts were played by men, and this has now become a distinctive feature of Kabuki today. The actor who plays the ‘woman form’ shows off movements that exceed that of a woman, being sensitive to things like the angle he tilts his head, how he extends his fingers, the use of his breath, not to mention his eye movements. People are sure to be transfixed by those graceful and fascinating movements. Broadly speaking, among the many chapters, there are 3 types: ‘period pieces’ which showcase historic events and people; ‘lifestyle pieces’ which present Edo Period commoners and finally ‘shosa pieces’ where dance plays a central role. ‘The Kabuki’! ones are the ‘period pieces’ where you can enjoy the beauty, but if you are worried about not being able to understand what they are saying, the ‘lifestyle pieces’ which are done in a more modern way or ones that show off the beauty of dancing rather than the synopsis, ‘shosa pieces’, might be your best bet. Also, another selling point of Kabuki is that they consider tradition to be important but are also willing to change with the times. They are gathering attention for not only their old-school programs but with new ones such as the one based on the worldly popular manga comic ‘One Piece’ or the bestseller picture book ‘On the Night of the Storm.’

Kabukiza Theatre showtimes

At the Kabukiza Theatre, there are shows almost every day of the year, except for the last week before the end of the year and first week of the new year. Basically in one day there is a noon showing and an evening showing, each of which are broken up into parts 1 through 3, with breaks in between, a couple chapters are shown. Roughly speaking, the noon showing is 11:00 to about 15:30, and the night showing is 16:30 to 21:00, being pretty long. For people who want a more relaxed atmosphere, we recommend the tickets sold on the day of called ’hitomakumiseki’. You can watch just the program you want to see for 1000 to 2000 yen.

How to buy tickets

You can buy tickets beforehand on the internet, by phone or at the Kabukiza Theatre ticket vendor. As long as there are open seats available at the theater vendor, you can buy tickets up until the last moment of the day of the showing. We recommend the center seats on the first floor for first timers so that you can look out over the entire stage. More reasonably priced seats are the ones towards the front, on the 3rd floor, where you can see the stage and ‘flower way (a long thin path that runs along the seats)’. Keep in mind same day ’hitomakumiseki (special seating or standing seats to watch just one chapter)’ tickets can’t be reserved the day of. To get your tickets, stand in the line to the left of the Kabukiza Theatre main entrance. If you are able to overlook minor details, on the top floor of the theater, the fourth floor, since the seats are towards the very back and it is hard to see the stage, because the entrance is different and you are not able to use the vending stores or restaurants, you can enjoy Kabuki for very cheap.

Reservations via internet: Ticket Web Matsutake/ Ticket Pia Kabuki land
Reservations by phone: Ticketphone Matsutake 0570-000-489

4 ways to enjoy Kabuki

Enjoy the story

What Kabuki portrays is the range of emotions and human feelings and the essence of everything, themes which are considered timeless. Since they explore many worlds, like the TV dramas that portray way of life, or the relatable stories that showcase everyday living, or ones that showcase the love-hate relationship between a man and a woman, you should choose a program similar to how you would choose a movie. Rely on the subtitle guide I’ll introduce at a later time, for the summary or key points, and the meaning of the lines.

Enjoy the actors

It is not uncommon that the actors we commonly see in movies or TV are actually Kabuki actors. ‘Oh, I know this actor. I didn’t know he was a Kabuki actor. I want to go see the Kabuki that this actor is in.’ The beginning can be like this. There are many people who casually go to see Kabuki and end up becoming devotees.

Enjoy the costumes and makeup

Only in Kabuki will you see gorgeous costumes that light up the stage. Even if you don’t understand the story, you can still enjoy it by just looking at the costumes. For example, a courtesan’s robe that looks like it weights many tens of kilograms is so absolutely gorgeous that your eyes will be captivated, and the beautiful, extremely elegant costume that the princess wears is full of pure glamour. The unique make-up is also a big highlight. Darth Maul of ‘Star Wars Episode I’ is obviously a conscious depiction of Kabuki’s ‘Kumadori’.

Enjoy the music

On stage, besides the actors’ lines, it is full of sounds and music. Sounds of nature such as the wind and rain, sound effects such as people’s footsteps, emotional background music, Shamisen and Okoto. All are played live by the actors on stage, and is fundamental to Kabuki.

Etiquette when watching

There are no strict rules when watching Kabuki. There is no dress code such as ‘You have to wear a kimono’. But if you dress up just a little, you’re sure to become a little excited. Enjoy Kabuki such as you would when going to a movie theater, where similar rules apply, such as turning off your cell-phone, no recording of sounds or taking video, and no talking or making sounds during the presentation. Even if you are unsure of when to clap, just copy the people around you and you will be fine. But, just be careful of shout-outs during the presentation such as ‘Narita-ya!’ ‘Nidai-me’ or ‘I’ve been waiting!’ These shout-outs from the crowd, called ‘Oomukou’ is essential to Kabuki, making the play lively, but because it has a subtle timing and rules to it, it is better for beginners to not take part. Especially, it is not really acceptable for women to do shout-outs.

Services that are delightful for foreigners

For foreigners who are giving up because they ‘want to watch Kabuki, but don’t understand Japanese..’ have a strong ally at the Kabukiza Theatre, unlike other theaters, because of something known as the ‘subtitle guide’. An English version service started with the use of an innovative portable monitor where you can check difficult words or the stage set, summary, or lines. It can be rented at all seats including the hitomakumiseki. Instead of a deposit, it is necessary for you to hand in a form of identification such as a passport. Check out the English version of the ‘Kabuki Web’ website. It has a wealth of information concerning the Kabuki and watching it.

(Extra information) How to enjoy Kabuki

When one program ends and before the next one begins, there is a rest period in-between called the ‘makuai (intermission)’ which is the best time to eat something. Buy and eat the bento lunches at the theater’s restaurants or vendors. At the box seats, it is possible to receive VIP service that will deliver food and tea to your seat (reservations needed). Inside the theater, they have speciality Japanese sweet snacks such as ‘Medetai-yaki’ or ‘Ningyou-yaki’ so you don’t have to worry about dessert either. It’s also delightful to look at the Japanese style cloths and fans at the vendors.
At the fifth floor Kabukiza Theatre gallery, there are actual costumes and props that were actually used on stage, on display. On this floor, there is also a photo studio where you can have photographs taken of you in Kabuki costumes, along with a rooftop garden, so be sure to stop by.

Kabukiza Theatre information

Name: Kabukiza Theatre
Address: Tokyo-to Chuou-ku Ginza 4-12-15
Access 1: Hibiya Line/ Asakusa Line Higashiginza station exit 3
Access 2: 5 minute walk from Ginza Line/Marunouchi Line/ Hibiya Line Ginza station
Access 3: 10 minute taxi ride from Tokyo Metro Line Tokyo Station
URL：http://www.kabuki-bito.jp/eng/contents/theatre/kabukiza.html

Summary

Kabuki is an introduction of Edo Period Japanese people’s frank spirits, to the present. If you have never been, the threshold seems kind of high, but there are many ideas and innovations being incorporated so that beginners and foreigners can enjoy it as well. If you do make the leap into the world of Kabuki, you might become obsessed and not be able to come out of it. Just try one program and see what you think.