photo by Wayne Lo
The town where we can reaffirm Japan’s beauty and wonderfulness is Oldtown Kyoto. Obviously with the many historic buildings, the shrines and temples, in every possible place we can enjoy the beautiful scenery of the four seasons and the orthodox Japanese cuisine, and it wouldn’t be an understatement to say that this is a compacted version of Japan. The ones that we want to catch a glimpse of in such a Kyoto are the breathtakingly beautiful geikos and maikos. It is their duty to make Kyoto’s graceful scenery even more colorful.
What’s the difference between a geiko and maiko?
photo by Hansel and Regrettal
Overseas, they are called geisha, but geisha is their name in Tokyo. Geishas are classified as either professionals or apprentices, and depending on the region, their name differs. In Tokyo, a professional is called a geisha, and an apprentice is called a hantama. In Kyoto, a professional is called a geiko and an apprentice is called a maiko. After the Meiji Period, it was more common in Japan for them to be called geiko and maiko in Japan, so here in this article we will commentate on them using these names. At first glance geikos and maikos look the same, but if you look closely and compare you’ll notice the differences.
photo by Annie Guilloret
Firstly there are the maikos. Young girls that dream of wanting to become geikos in the future start out as maikos. Most maikos are 20 years old or younger. Their real hair is in a chignon, decorated adorably with elaborate hairpins and hair ornaments, making them very girly and cute. They also wear the colorful furisode (kimonos) that only young women are allowed to wear. The obvious distinction between the geiko and maiko is made by just looking at the length of the obi (kimono sash) and the geta (wooden clogs). The maiko’s obi is a heavy ‘dangling obi’. And they wear geta that are ‘okobos’, wooden clogs which have a height of about 10cm. If you’re in town and you think, ‘Is she a geiko or a maiko?’ then secretly go behind her and check. The maiko’s appearance from behind might be a little more sensual than expected so don’t be creepy and stare too long.
And then there are the geikos. There are innocent ones who join this world after the age of twenty and make their debut as geikos, but most do it by gaining experience so there’s lots of dignity. Among them are apparently 80 year olds who are still currently working. Thosegeikos have lots of experience so their techniques of entertaining customers are certainly one of a professional. They joyfully entertain the gathering with their dance, shamisen, koto, or songs. Of course, they look totally different from the maikos. They wear wigs and their hair ornaments are more reserved. They wear black or chic colored kimonos that bring out their adult seductiveness.
Where can you meet geikos or maikos?
Just because you go to Kyoto doesn’t mean that you can always meet a maiko or geiko. If you don’t want to be disappointed, you have to do your homework. If you just want at least a glance, go out to Hanami-koji or Miyagawa-cho. This area is called Hanamachi, and many of the geikos and maikos walk about this area from the dusk to night. But, going after a gecko or maiko or taking pictures of them without permission is a nuisance. If you want to take a picture at all costs, be sure to get permission otherwise you will be hated.
And, if you’re an adult you’ll want to experience the gatherings in Kyoto. If you’re a first-timer, at first glance there are many gathering places that will reject you, but ‘Gion Hatanaka’ is one that lightheartedly welcomes first-timers. ‘An evening of Kyoto Cuisine and Maikos’ consists of activities such as maikos and geikos dancing and playing shamisen (three-stringed Japanese lute), where you can smack appreciative lips. There are opportunities to talk with the maikos and geikos so if you don’t want to fall flat, be sure to come prepared with some interesting material or questions.
Gion Hatanaka
Kyoto City Higashiyama-ku Gion-cho Minamigawa 505
Phone # 075-541-5315
For ones who want to enjoy a party with just maikos, ‘Maiko Hana no Seki’ is recommended. After enjoying a real maiko’s dance, it is time to enjoy some conversation. Further, you are allowed to take commemorative photos, so this will surely be implanted as part of your precious memory. It is only open on Saturday, Sundays and holidays so it’s sure to be crowded. Make reservations if you can.
Maiko Hana no Seki
Kyoto City Higashiyama-ku Gion-cho Minamigawa
Phone # 075-451-1881
For the shy you, who ‘can’t talk directly to the maikos and geikos’, how about going to ‘Gion Corner’? Starting with the maiko’s traditional dance, you can enjoy the abridged version of Japanese traditional entertainment. But the maikos do dance very far away on the stage. They don’t come close to the customers that come to watch them, and you can’t talk to them. Keep that in mind.
Gion Corner
Kyoto City Higashiyama-ku Gion-cho Minamigawa 570-2 Gion Kaikan Mae
Phone # 075-561-1119
For people who are ‘just watching is not enough! I want to as well!’
Further, for people who aren’t satisfied with just looking at the maikos, how about changing into one? At the ‘Maiko Henshin Studio Shiki’ you can experience the aspiring maiko experience. There are plans where you can change into a maiko, walk the streets and take commemorative photos. Here men can’t become maikos, but they can change into samurais. There are value campaigns constantly being offered, so be sure to check out the homepage.
Maiko Henshin Studio
Shiki Kyoto City Higashiyama-ku Kodai-ji Minami-mon Matsuya-cho 351-16
Phone # 075－531-2777
Unsaid rules that you need to follow
Geikos and maikos are servicing professionals so misunderstanding that is taboo. Basically, they will nicely converse about almost anything, but be sure to not talk about private matters such as dating or money. Obviously, touching of the body, hair and kimono is out of the question. To keep your Kyoto memories wonderful, and to not make the maikos uncomfortable, be sure to abide by these rules as a minimum.
