photo by yahooblog
Also one of Kyoto’s Summer traditions, ‘Kawayuka’. Open-air dining areas created on the river surface are cool even in the midst of summer, and is the place where the phrase ‘with a natural air conditioner working’ is appropriate. Further, with the surrounding environment it showcases the perfect summer. The kawayuka, along with its refreshing air and good food, is the beautiful view. This time, a little bit of a thorough introduction.
The birthplace of kawayuka: Kyoto’s Kamogawa
The kawayuka originates from the ideas of the rich in the late Momoyama Period. It is said that the beginnings are when it was laid down in Kamogawa. Unchanged over the years, centrally located Kamogawa in Kyoto has great access. Every year from May until September, during kawayuka season it becomes crowded. Characteristic of Kamogawa’s kawayuka is the open-air dining area that is projected on the riverbed. The footing is barely the height of the river, but it is surely exceptional to have a meal while feeling the flow of both the river and the gentle breeze. At lunch there is the lunch vibe, at night there is the characteristic night vibe with the glow of the kawayuka reflecting off the river surface seen from far away, making it extra magical. There are various restaurants, Kyo- cuisine for sure, French, Italian, various countries’ cuisines, yakiniku, etc. Even if the inside of your wallet is a little bare, there are places like Starbucks or cafes that you can easily go to, so that you can enjoy the rich kawayuka mood. Kamogawa has three kawayuka areas, where most of the restaurants are thriving, so be sure to make reservations before hand.
Kamigoya cho area (North of Sanjoh-dori)
Closest station: Kyoto City subway ‘Kyoto Shiyakusho mae’ or Keihan Honsen ‘Sanjo’.
Ponto-cho area (Sanjo-dori to Yojo-dori)
Closest station: Keihan Honsen ‘Sanjo’ ‘Gion Shijo’ or ‘Kawara-cho’ on the Hanky Kyoto Line
Nishiishigaki area / Shimokamigoya area (South of Yojo-dori)
Closest station: Keihan Honsen ‘Gion Shijo’ or ‘Shimizu Gojo’
This is it, the signature place, Kibune, where you can enjoy the kawayuka!
Kibune is also known as ‘Kyoto’s Inner Parlor’. Surrounded by deep greenery and where the river runs pristinely, it is like a different world. The kawayuka which is built only a couple of centimeters from the Kibune River surface, is said to be about 10’C cooler when compared to the humid city center. Therefore, the Kibune kawayuka are very popular. Each of the stores are always crowded, and it’s almost impossible to get in without a reservation. But, even with a reservation, if it rains you wont be able to dine at the kawayuka so don’t forget to check the weather forecast as well. In all, there are several tens of stores. Most serve Japanese cuisine. Among them, a very popular restaurant ‘Hirofumi’, located a little farther away, has nagashi somen (flowing some noodles). In the case of nagashi somen, you can’t make reservations in advance, so it is normal to wait for at least an hour even on a weekday. Just be prepared for the wait. It is quite a walk to get to Kibune, but apparently there are some restaurants that have a sending off service. How about going to see it anyway?
Access from Kyoto station to Kibune
From Kyoto Station take the city bus 17 and head to Demachiyanagi Station. From there, take the Eizan electric railway and get off at Kibune-guchi stop. Walk approximately 2 km from Kibune-guchi stop and you’ll arrive at your destination.
Takao’s kawayuka; a place where in the fall, you can enjoy the autumn leaves
About an hour from the center of Kyoto city center is ‘Takao’s Kawayuka’. Compared with the city center, this place seems like it has no connection with the hot humidity, with it’s cool breeze blowing through. This kawayuka is built higher than the surface of the river and because of this, you can enjoy the beautiful flow of the river along with the trees on the mountains without rushing. This kawayuka has a roof so there is no need to worry about the days it rains or the days with strong sun rays. You can enjoy the sound of the Kiyotaki River, while enjoying Japanese cuisine which consists of natural Ayu (sweetfish) and Kyoto vegetables. From the beginning of June, Genshi fireflies start flying around, sure to lift the kawayuka mood. At well-established ryokan ‘Momijiya’ limited to the summer kawayuka season, there are delightful plans where you can take memorial photos with the Maiko, as well as have pleasant chats with them. You might become nervous at this rare chance, but be sure to not miss this rare opportunity. Furthermore, the autumn leaves of Takao are so beautiful that there is a saying, ‘For autumn leaves, there is Takao’. They are open until November so we recommend trying to go during this season. The Takao kawayuka is worth going to even though it is a little far.
How to get to Takao from Kyoto Station
Take the JR bus from JR Kyoto Station, get off at Makio bus station and walk 3 minutes. Or take a 15 minute taxi ride from JR Hanazono Station.
Manners to keep in mind when going to kawayuka
To enjoy the kawayuka, it is of course necessary to make reservations, but be sure to not forget your manners so as to not destroy the ambiance. Be sure to get a little dressed up. Also, don’t forget that the closer you are to the riverbank, the higher the seat of honor is. Just don’t even bother asking the store attendant to move you somewhere better. Do your best to behave yourself. Also, when the fruits come, that is the end of the meal. Be sure to ask for your check then.
In closing
How was it?There is a tendency to assume that kawayuka cuisine is mostly high class Kyoto cuisine, but it’s nice to know that there is a wide variety of things to eat. In this case, as long as we keep our manners in mind, the first step to taking part in the so called high-class kawayuka is somewhat now doable. People who have plans to make a trip to Kyoto, how about stretching out a little and taking part in the representative Japanese summer tradition of ‘kawayuka’ ?
